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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.